Re: USB Converter for MS Sidewinder 3DPro, PP, and FFP
Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 2:52 pm
I did clip the SH pin pretty close. I don't think it is touching anything but since the DB15 is the first question I'll take a close look.
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I'd try alcohol first or electronics cleaner. I prefer alcohol because it doesn't evaporate as fast, gives more time to work the parts around to get the dirt to loosen and flow out. Silicon is going to leave a film behind which will attract dust and nasty stuff, which puts you right back where you started sooner. Just use plenty of alcohol and work the slider back and forth a lot. Give it plenty of time to dry completely. Some canned air to help start the drying doesn't hurt and helps get the dirt out better.stuggy wrote:One issue a stick or 2 does have is a sticky slider. Has anyone solved that one? Silicon?
Scanjo is right. This is by design, the converter picks different USB descriptors depending on the joystick that is connected -- only after finding and ID'ing a stick the converter has enough information to activate the USB interface. The blinking LED is meant as an indicator that the converter is up & running, waiting for a stick to connect.decibel666 wrote:After flashing the Teensy 2.0 Board with the Hexfile and rebooting the teensy with only the teensy connected to the pc (without the pcb and the joystick) should it be recognized from windows 7 ? (led is flashing) My teensy is only recognized from Win7 during flashing!
We need a little more info to be able to help you. There are several different discussions that have gone on in this thread. What exactly do you have for an adapter? Did you get one of mine? Did you build your own on a bread board? A picture is worth a thousand words...FiskFisk33 wrote:I have some serious problems with this.
The joystick is recognized by windows but most of the buttons won't work, and worst of all, the axis movement is jittery and inprecise, it does not register at all like it should.
I want to get this sorted but i dont know att all where to start.
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DB-15 Teensy
======= ========
1 5v
2 D0
3 B5
4 Ground
5 & 6 NC (NC = Not Connected)
7 D1
8 & 9 NC
10 D2
11 & 12 NC
13 B4 (on my board I connect pins 11 & 13 to B4 to support multiple joysticks)
14 D3
15 NC
I don't THINK that would be a problem. I use very small traces on my PCB. It MIGHT be an issue with 5v and ground but the rest should be for signals. I'm not an engineer so I can't give a qualified answer.FiskFisk33 wrote: maybe the wires i use soldered to the db15 is too skinny? the metal cores in those flexible ones is very thin, could this cause problems here?
50v should be plenty. 500v is just overkill but shouldn't cause problems. This circuit runs on 5v from the USB connector so 50v is actually overkill... The more important thing is the Farad rating.FiskFisk33 wrote:i've checked the connections and they seem to match up,
what I notice now is that the caps I'm using is rated for 50V and that the caps the text file on the google page is linking to caps rated for 500V
could this cause problems?
oh and thanks for really great answers, I'll see if i can find a better camera.
Your wiring looks fine. The caps should be 1nF (IIRC 102 is the correct value), the resistors are less important, 2k2 or 1k should work equally well. A jitter of up to +/- 10 (raw) on the axes is pretty normal for a 3DPro (since the ranges are 1024 and 512.) If you are unsure if the wires are too flimsy, measure their resistance -- a 3DP draws up to 45mA, calculate the voltage drop via resistance * 0.045 -- if it's > 0.2 it actually could be too flimsy. If the solder joints on the DB15 connector look good, check the other end of the wires as well, it could be an intermittent connection on one of the 4 button lines (D0-D3, these carry the data.)FiskFisk33 wrote:I have some serious problems with this.
The joystick is recognized by windows but most of the buttons won't work, and worst of all, the axis movement is jittery and inprecise, it does not register at all like it should.
I want to get this sorted but i dont know att all where to start.
absolutely, but what happens here is, when for example i want to center it it could end up anywhere on the axis, 0% to 100%. and when i move the joystick around the input jerks after, like several 100's of milliseconds between jumps.Grendel wrote:A jitter of up to +/- 10 (raw) on the axes is pretty normal for a 3DPro
I'm testing with a cheapo multimeter. the resistance i measure is 2,1 ohm, that is however also rougly the same value i get when i measure the lines in the breadboard, no matter if two holes next to one another or across the whole board.Grendel wrote:a 3DP draws up to 45mA, calculate the voltage drop via resistance * 0.045 -- if it's > 0.2 it actually could be too flimsy. If the solder joints on the DB15 connector look good, check the other end of the wires as well, it could be an intermittent connection on one of the 4 button lines (D0-D3, these carry the data.)
How are you testing the values ?
The adapter I was making has been tested on versions of Windows from XP through Win8.1 and on Mac OS X. To my knowledge no one has tested while bootcamping on the Mac. I would guess that it will work but can't guarantee it. Maybe someone that has tried it will reply, or someone with the same setup could test it. It's going to be a while before I get fired up and ready to build again so there's time for a reply.Mr. Lion wrote:Hello everyone. I'm new here…
That's assuming that what I want to do is possible. What I have is a Mac Pro that has one dedicated HDD running an installation of XP and an installation of Win7, the former for old(er) games and the latter for new(er) ones. There won't be any problem with the OSes recognising the 3DPP—and I don't think there will be any software probs—but has anyone tried using the 3DPP plus adapter on an Intel Mac of any sort and been successful with it? If so, then I'll go ahead. If it won't work then it would be nice to know. If I'm heading for unexplored territory (unlikely, I think) then I'll be happy to report back.
Thanks for reading…
Drakoz wrote:(OK, I retyped this after comparing the schematics myself.)
The schematic for the Teensy 2.0 board can be found here:
https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/schematic.html
I compared the Teensy board vs. the A-Star 32U4 Micro board you mentioned, and they seem schematically to be the same. The A-Star does not have an LED like the Teensy. You can add one easily enough. Both use a 16 MHz crystal, so no timing differences. All GPIOs are available, so no conflicts. The A-Star board lacks some decoupling caps on the VCC line, but that's a minor difference that if it matters, you can add them yourself.
Also, I don't know if the Teensy 2.0 uses a special boot loader from PJRC, or if it's the standard boot loader from Atmel (firmware that comes on the Atmel part to load software via USB). The PC software used to load a Teensy board is specific to the Teensy, though. But it may be using standard procedures (the standard boot loader) from Atmel. You'll need to confirm this. If the Teensy boot loader isn't from Atmel, then you should still be able to load the adapt-ffb-joy firmware, but you'll have to use the Atmel software. Once firmware is loaded, there shouldn't be anything special about the Teensy board vs. the A-Star board. They are both basically the Atmel reference design.
Mike
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D15 pin Mega32u4 pin Arduino pin
1 +5V
2 PB0+PD0 SS+D3
3 PB5 D9
4 GND
7 PB1 SCK
10 PB2 MO
14 PB3 MI
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DSub ProMicro
1 Vcc
2 3 + RxLED (see photo)
3 9
4 GND
7 15
10 16
14 14 (these last 3 are in an interesting order on the ProMicro)
Sorry I am mistaken. I miscounted the legs on the 32U4. That fifth one was VBUS. The fourth one, PB0, goes nowhere at all.Drakoz wrote:Just use an Exacto knife to scrape the soldermask off. Then solder a wire to the exposed via pad. If you can clean out the hole (for the via), you can solder a 30 AWG wire into the hole, but I'd suggest just scrape the soldermask off the surface and don't try to clean out the via.
But the bigger question is, where does that pin go. If there is a trace and a via, they used it for something. You should verify what they used it for and make sure there is no conflict. Or, you might find an easier spot to solder to.
Regards,
Mike